Author Archives: Roderick Eime

 

With such a wide choice of ships for your Kimberley cruise, how do you know what is best for you?

 

Once upon a time, Western Australia’s Kimberley was a well-kept secret among local boaties looking for great Barramundi fishing, geologists studying some of the oldest rocks on Earth and ardent archaeologists in search of the most ancient civilisations.

The Kimberley is still something of a secret, although no longer a very well-kept one. 

Located in the far Northwest corner of Australia, it covers an area almost twice the size of Victoria and easily larger than Germany or the British Isles. Despite its immense area, it is one of the least populated regions on our planet. It has some of the greatest tidal ranges anywhere - up to 12 metres - and frequently receives more than a metre and a half of rain every year.

 

 

All these features combine to make it one of the last truly pristine places on Earth and a modern eco-tourism hotspot, drawing thousands of nature-loving travellers to gaze in awe at the staggering geological features, spot mighty saltwater crocodiles and witness impossibly cute rock wallabies. 

While many visitors to Australia’s North West will take to the dusty roads winding past giant boab trees and through dry, rocky riverbeds, an increasing number will board one of the increasing number of vessels navigating the labyrinthine shores between Broome and Darwin.

Up until a few years ago, these were smaller, boutique cruisers and yacht-style vessels accommodating typically less than 50 passengers keen to combine their sightseeing with some fishing and perhaps a hike to a freshwater swimming hole. Now the fleet includes lavish 200-passenger pocket cruise ships boasting fine dining, free-flowing champagne and luxurious balcony suites serviced by waistcoated butlers.

 

Choices, choices. 

 

Now let’s imagine you have chosen to cruise in the Kimberley. Given that the prices are not particularly different for small or large ships, it often gets down to the expedition delivery and itinerary devised by the various operators.

If you are a seasoned ‘white ship’ cruiser accustomed to the niceties of the really big ships, then the small (micro) cruise option may be a bit of a jolt. Cabins are smaller and private balconies are rare. Dining, while still excellent quality, is often communal and alcohol choices may be limited.  

The big, 100-200 berth ships are mostly foreign-flagged. Apart from Cairns-based, Australian-owned Coral Expeditions, whose biggest Australian-flagged vessels Coral Adventurer and Coral Geographer carry 120 guests, the likes of Ponant, Seabourn, Heritage Expeditions and Silversea all carry foreign flags. 

 

 

So what’s the big deal? Under Australian maritime law, foreign ships are not allowed to sail directly between mainland ports, so they must detour to an international port. A compromise of sorts has been reached with these vessels whereby they now transit via Ashmore Reef, which adds extra 'time at sea' compared to the Australian operators such as Coral Expeditions who can maximise their time closer to the coast.

Furthermore, the big vessels typically run a well-rehearsed 10-night ‘highlights’ itinerary between Broome and Darwin that takes in the most prominent Kimberley icons like Montgomery Reef, Talbot Bay, Horizontal Falls, Jar Island, Porosis Creek and King George River. 

 

 

But for the last 30 years or so, the Kimberley has been the domain of these tiny, boutique ships where local knowledge reigns supreme. They can, and do, linger wherever they desire taking advantage of whatever the prevailing conditions are. Two excursions every day is the norm plus there will be freshwater swimming (away from the big nasty crocs), hiking on remote beaches, visiting hidden ‘secret’ waterfalls, fishing and unmapped rock art sites.   

There are no ‘down days’, so you better be ready for action as the expedition leader will often be devising the next day’s activities the night before as tides and winds are studied and reports of wildlife sightings come in from other friendly vessels. These sightings can include breaching whales, various eagles and raptors, crocodiles, rare dolphins and even the occasional dugong. 

 

 

Take, for example, the powerful, 38m catamaran Reef Prince. When at capacity, it takes no more than 36 travellers sharing 18 cabins, all with private facilities. Dining is in the spacious common lounge which also serves as a bar and lecture theatre. Meals are served directly from the galley by a qualified chef to tables of 8 to 10 guests. Several times during the cruise, tables will be set up on deck under festoon lights for a delightful gourmet evening meal under a star-spangled night sky. 

Days begin early as mornings are a special time in the Kimberley. as the rising sun bathes the ancient sandstone in pastel hues. The silence is only broken by the screech of a wheeling osprey or the splash of excited fish as they chase their breakfast.

 

 

Tenders are launched for the day’s activities which may be an exploration of a remote river, a fishing expedition or a transfer to a prehistoric rock art site. Local vessels prefer aluminium-hulled runabouts with powerful outboard motors, carrying about 10 guests at a time. The international vessels are equipped with rubber-hulled inflatable Zodiacs which they also use amongst the ice in polar regions. With the many submerged rocks and hidden debris in the shallow rivers, these sturdy metal boats can absorb much more punishment in this unforgiving environment. 

 

A bird’s eye view

 

Furthermore, several of the smaller vessels such as Kimberley Quest, True North and Great Escape will carry their own helicopter for additional sightseeing and exploration opportunities. Iconic Mitchell Falls, as featured in such blockbuster cinematic productions as Baz Luhrmann's Australia can only be accessed by air from any ship. Sure, there are third-party operators too flying out of the Hunter River, but having your own chopper on call is pretty special and opens up so many more possibilities like overflying the otherworldly Montgomery Reef when the submarine plateau rises up like Atlantis as the massive tide falls.

 

 

Another key feature of the Kimberley that is only available to the smaller vessels is the magical Kings Cascade deep in the Prince Regent River. These naturally formed terraces come alive like vertical rapids, especially in the early season and offer one of the best photo opportunities anywhere in the Kimberley. Don’t be surprised if your skipper manoeuvres the tender under the flow for a refreshing shower of crystal-clear water. 

 

Timing is everything

 

It seems every year the Kimberley cruise season expands by a few weeks. Local, small ship operators have the luxury of starting and finishing their cruise program whenever they like. A typical season is during ‘the dry’ between late March and early October with each segment of the season having its own advantages.

While early departures may strike the last of the wet season rain and its humidity, the spectacle of the waterfalls in full flow is worth every discomfort. The massive Twin Falls on the King George River are truly a wonder to behold as thousands of tonnes of water come crashing down nearly 100 metres onto the rocks below in a noise like jet engines. 

 

 

Mid-season has the best overall weather with clear, sunny days, while the end of the dry around October is the best time for fishing for the prized Barramundi. 

As a final piece of advice, it’s always best to consult an experienced Kimberley cruise specialist and that’s not something you’ll find at your everyday high street travel agent. Even though most Kimberley cruise choices are excellent, a specialist can fine-tune your experience and guide you to the vessel that will best fulfill your expectations. Every cruise operator will tell you they are the best, but a Kimberley Cruise Specialist will know what is the best for you.

 

Ready to book your Kimberley Cruise or want to find out more about the options? Contact the expert team at Expedition Cruise Specialists today on 1800 90 20 80 or fill in the form below and one of our team will call you back.

 

 

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It will come as no surprise to learn that our neighbours across the Tasman are enjoying a boom in cruising at least as exciting as our own. With its diverse geography and geology plus rich Polynesian culture, New Zealand really is an ideal destination for ships of all shapes and sizes.

The myriad wonders and blockbuster scenery of Aotearoa (the land of the long white cloud) are well known thanks to movies like Lord of the Rings and it seems everyone wants a piece of the action. 

But looking at the map, it’s easy to see how much of this intricate coastline would be overlooked if one were restricted to port-hopping with the larger cruise ships. Captain Cook himself, aboard the tiny Endeavour, was perhaps the first European to sing the praises of his new found southern paradise and he used every opportunity to return and rest his men in the peaceful surrounds of places like Queen Charlotte Sound. A century earlier, Tasman had received unwelcome attention from the M?ori and wasn’t so keen to hang around.

From my own experience, many great attractions exist in the smaller cities and towns where large numbers of disembarking passengers could well spoil the special appeal of these out of the way places. One cruise I enjoyed immensely was in the Bay of Islands where kilometre after kilometre of intricate coastline, little nooks, coves and crannies, thickly wooded islands and headlands are all interwoven to create a convivial natural latticework perfect for smaller vessels.

 

 

Another time I dropped in to little Kaikoura where I discovered their secret – a very deep secret. But now the word is out. Only a few hundred metres off shore, the seabed rapidly plunges into a massive submarine canyon well over a kilometre deep. When warm tropical currents flowing southward crash head-on into the cold Antarctic stream heading north, a swirling mass of nutrient-rich water is sucked up from the depths. This marine smorgasbord attracts an array of aquatic mammals, fish, birds and tourists. Whales, dolphins, seals and all manner of aquatic birds abound in and around Kaikoura.  

One of the cruise areas that you will see on many itineraries is the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Fiordland which encompasses Milford Sound, Dusky Sound and Doubtful Sound. If you want to get pedantic, it was James Cook who named them ‘sounds’ when in fact they are proper, glacial fjords. No one has dared correct him. While the big ships cruise in and out, smaller ships will occasionally land guests ashore and conduct excursions as far afield as Queenstown.  

 

 

Napier is another intriguing port. Totally destroyed by an earthquake in 1931, it was rebuilt in the art deco style. Many buildings remain and the city is making full use of its unique assets which, apart from the heritage architecture, include the vast Hawke’s Bay, widely recognised as New Zealand’s leading wine and food region. Walking the ornate streets is a thrill in itself and guided walking tours are great fun.

Around the corner from Napier is the Bay of Plenty, regularly visited by the big ships but also an attraction for smaller ones. While the large vessels send their guests off to Rotorua from the deep sea port at Tauranga, more adventurous types head out to volcanic White Island, where, depending on weather and volcanic activity, tenders may put guests ashore for a steamy excursion.

Way down at the very foot of the South Island is Stewart Island. Insulated from the world by its remoteness, Stewart Island is a haven for travellers looking for nature, tranquility, and adventure. While it is ideal for small ship visits, bigger ships occasionally creep in, too, putting passengers ashore by tender to visit the small village or take shore excursions into the Rakiura National Park, which makes up 85 percent of the island. 

Now for those really looking for a dash of adventure, New Zealand has a whole bunch of sub-Antarctic islands hundreds of kilometres south of Stewart Island. These little specks of land have been variously used for agriculture, seal hunting and even military surveillance, but all are now returned to national parks and are occasionally visited by expedition ships. Names like Auckland, the Snares, Enderby and Campbell Island all contain wonderful birdlife, particularly albatross and petrels and rare fur seals.

 

 

Thankfully, several specialist cruise lines have taken a particular interest in New Zealand and its potential for boutique travel. However, you’ll be paying a bit more for these cruises.

Cruise lines regularly visiting New Zealand on comprehensive itineraries include Silversea Cruises, Seabourn, Ponant and Regent Seven Seas. For a small ship or expedition cruising experience, New Zealand’s Heritage Expeditions and Australia’s Coral Expeditions should be high on the list for any traveller seeking smaller groups and active adventures.

Writer’s Tip: There’s no bad decision about cruising in New Zealand, so don’t worry about choice. Small ship cruises, however, require a bit more attention to detail. Identify as closely as you can what you want to see and do, then go after a vessel that does it. Some of the waters down south can get ‘choppy’. 

 

Roderick Eime is Australia’s leading expedition cruising photojournalist. You can follow his exploits at www.expeditioncruising.com

 

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Are you ready for your big adventure cruise?

You must be sick of hearing about your friends’ fantastic Antarctic adventures by now, so isn’t it about time you had your own?

Yes, it’s true, there are adventure cruises all around the world now but for most people, it’s Antarctica that sets the heart racing and is your first taste of true wilderness. The great empty white continent is the coldest, windiest, driest, least inhabited continent on the planet and hardly seems like an ideal holiday destination. Well, I’m about to tell you Antarctica is the sort of place you DON’T go for a holiday - but instead, for the most rewarding, enlightening and enriching adventure experience you will ever have. 

If you were to go into your corner travel agent and ask about Antarctic cruises, chances are they will scratch their head and reach for the closest brochure. Most likely it is a cruise company with whom they have a sales agreement and one that excludes a great many of the really interesting smaller cruise companies who know more about travel to Antarctica than the big, glitzy operators with their free-flowing champagne and Michelin-starred chefs.

Now, if you like that kind of thing, by all means, go for it because no matter who you travel with, you are sure to have the best time. But let’s dig a bit deeper and see what else is on offer for this spectacular voyage you will most likely only ever do once in your life.

 

 

Where exactly does my voyage go?

Almost every voyage leaves from the southernmost city in the world, Ushuaia, at the very bottom of South America. You will then sail across the legendary Drake Passage to the Antarctic Peninsula and - hold onto your beanie - because it can get rough. You might get lucky and sail across the ‘Drake Lake’, but no one can guarantee a smooth crossing.

 

EXPERT TIP from Expedition Cruise Specialists: These days new Polar Class 6 ships like Oceanwide Expeditions’ Hondius and Aurora Expeditions’ Greg Mortimer are purpose-built to minimise movement in open water. But if you’ve got a queasy stomach and even the thought of a bumpy crossing turns you green, Antarctica21’s new Magellan Explorer might be just the ticket. Cross the Drake Passage in both directions by charter jet before joining the ship close to the action.

 

 

Once across the passage, your ship will arrive in the much calmer waters around the Peninsula and begin to explore the islands and fjords full of squawking penguins and curious seals. Ships may also visit the sites of current and former Antarctic bases, so there’s a fair dose of history too.

If you’re more the serious adventure type, you might consider a voyage to East Antarctica. ‘Why?’ I hear you ask. Because that part of the continent, below the Antarctic Circle, is the epicentre of history and exploration and is sure to trump your friends’ stories about their ‘excursion’ to the Peninsula. For this voyage, ships depart from the southern tip of New Zealand, stopping at the lesser-known subantarctic islands due south of the long white cloud. You may not have heard of Macquarie Island which, for trivia buffs, is actually part of Tasmania, although more than 1700 kms away. It was made famous by Sir Douglas Mawson, who set up camp there in 1911 while on his way to the Ross Sea, where you can end up if you’re going all the way.

 

EXPERT TIP from Expedition Cruise Specialists: Getting to East Antarctica is harder as it involves a longer time at sea, but the rewards are undoubtedly worth it. New Zealand’s Heritage Expeditions offer several expeditions to East Antarctica each year aboard the Spirit of Enderby, or for the ultimate experience you can cruise all the way from Ushuaia to New Zealand aboard Oceanwide Expeditions’ Ortelius or Lindblad Expeditions’ soon to be launched National Geographic Endurance.

 

 

What will I see in Antarctica?

Most of your boring dinner guests will tell you all about the penguins, (flying) seabirds, seals or even whales and, let’s be honest, they can be pretty entertaining. Communing with the handsome King Penguins with their hilariously fluffy youngsters is not something you’re ever going to forget. Then there are the boisterous Gentoos who hop around constantly tending their nests and demanding youngsters. Sound familiar? 

Sometimes the little guys will get distracted and come over to check you out. If you sit still, they will inspect your backpack, pulling on the buckles and straps to see what’s inside. Shoelaces are another favourite source of amusement.   

Now you need to be on your guard with the fur seals. The naughty weener pups, with nothing better to do while they wait for mum to come back from shopping, will chase each other around and sometimes you too. If dad’s at home you will likely get a surly look and a not-so-polite request to move along. 

 

 

The big blubbery elephant seals are something else altogether. Like some weird sea monster dreamed up by Jules Verne, these slothy creatures wallow around in packs, belching and slobbering all over each other. The little ones, however, are as cute as all get out with their big dreamy eyes and whiskers and may even approach you if you’re patient. Your guide will quickly remind you that it's their choice, not yours to make the approach, so don’t get carried away. 

You’ll know too that whales love to go on summer holidays to Antarctica where all the food is. Take it in turns with your fellow passengers to stand watch on the bridge for the telltale blow of the spout. If you’re not sure what sort of whale it is, your guide will race over with the picture book and get you to describe the shape and pattern of the ‘blow’ and how big the fins are. Most common are the Humpbacks who just love to shoot out of the water and splash back in. This is called ‘breaching’ and it’s only Humpbacks which do this. Ask your guide why. Otherwise, you might sight the smaller Minkes, Orcas (aka Killer Whales) or big ones like Fin Whales or (get ready with yelps of delight) the super rare Blue Whale.

EXPERT TIP from Expedition Cruise Specialists: Several ships, inclduing Oceanwide Expeditions’ Hondius  offer dedicated whale watching cruises each year, guided by leading marine mammal experts.

 

 

And what else is there to do?

These days the various ships that go south have a whole bunch of stuff to keep you amused. When ashore you can hike up a hill (or mountain), go snowshoeing, photograph everything in sight or explore the historic huts and bases like at Port Lockroy or Deception Island. For the particularly intrepid, there is ice camping (yes, in tents) or even snorkelling and dry suit diving for qualified scuba divers. During the few sea days and in the evenings, sit in on one of the expert lectures from biologists, historians or any of the other scientists who may be along.

Then, when your expedition is over, you will have a brag bag chock full of stories and yarns for when you take your place at the table

 

Roderick Eime is Australia’s leading expedition cruising photojournalist. You can follow his exploits at www.expeditioncruising.com

Images in this article courtesy of Oceanwide Expeditions, Aurora Expeditions, Heritage Expeditions, One Ocean Expeditions & Antarctica21